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Greatest Painting Ever?

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Mon, 10 May 2021 15:01:40 GMT

Saved by Insubordination

English writer Aldous Huxley penned an essay in 1925 claiming that “The Resurrection”, a fresco credited to Piero Della Francesca in Sansepolcro was the "greatest painting ever".

"We need no imagination to help us figure forth its beauty,'' Huxley wrote. "It stands there before us in entire and actual splendour, the greatest picture in the world.”

And thanks to obstinate insubordination by an English artillery officer, Thomas Clarke, you can still visit the painting today. Because in WWII Sansepolcro was ordered to be shelled in advance of an infantry strike on the German held town. Clarke, remembering the essay and the place of the painting, delayed his orders long enough for the Germans to flee the city. He then radioed his commanders to tell them, thus negating the need for the barrage. A barrage that certainly would have leveled the building housing this beautiful fresco.

The Pit Cheeses of Sogliano

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Tue, 15 Sep 2020 13:53:49 GMT

Celebrate the Opening of the Pits

Formaggio di Fossa (pit cheese) has a fascinating history that dates back to the second millennium B.C., when semi-nomadic populations used to graze sheep and cattle on the hills that are now part of the territory of Sogliano.

Storing foods in the ground was a common means of preservation for grains and other foodstuffs including cheese. It was soon realized that the cheese extracted from the pits had undergone a sort of fermentation that gave it a special flavor and taste. The practice evolved into a way of making this unique cheese today.

In 2009, in recognition of its ancient history and uniqueness, the pit cheese was awarded the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) with the name “Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano P.D.O. Cheese”. While the PDO has strict regulations, there is tremendous variation in taste depending on the producer’s choice of milk, size of pit and seasonings.

Today the “opening” of the pits is feasted by the Fiera del Formaggio di Fossa (Pit Cheese Fair). The first edition was established back in 1974 and this year is being held 22 November thru 6 December. Join our Gusto tour and we’ll take you there!

Images courtesy of the commune of Sogliano

Learn how to prep vegetables for this Bolognese sauce

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Sat, 20 Jun 2020 13:42:23 GMT

Chef Stefano demonstrates how to prep vegetables in this video

You can learn how to make Bolognese and a host of other sauces online or you can come to Italy and spend a few days in the Apennine Mountain

Breakfast on the River Tevere

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Fri, 12 Jun 2020 15:31:46 GMT

The River Tevere (Tiber River) has a humble beginning

Starting out as a small brook in the Apennine Mountains, the River Tevere, also known as the Tiber River, winds it way down to Rome. While you can cross the many bridges in Rome spanning the river, in the Apennines you can join Chef Stefano and take breakfast alongside its humble beginnings.

Picnic in the Woods

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Fri, 08 May 2020 14:49:53 GMT

Apennine Mountains are great for hikes

Whether its raining or not, you can enjoy a trek into the Apennine mountains. Life is good in the mountains

Origins of Lent in Italy

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Tue, 25 Feb 2020 19:45:02 GMT

Meatless Fridays aren't so bad anymore

The day before Lent begins is celebrated throughout Italy, non more so than the famous Carnevale in Venice. Also known as Quaresima, or the 40th day, in Italian, Lent is the word Catholics use to describe the fast before Easter. With Catholics making up a majority of Italy it is no doubt the holiest time of the year.

The reason behind the Carnivale is that it is the last day before the fast begins. Lent is meant to symbolize the fast of Jesus during his 40 days in the desert. While the origins may date back to apostolic times, it was formalized by the first council of Nicea in 325 ce. However there is much scholarly debate as to the timing of the fast throughout the ages and by the different schisms of the Catholic Church. The Eastern Orthodox start and end their lent on different dates than the Roman Catholics who traditionally started their's on “Ash Wednesday” and ending on Easter Day.

Throughout history the nature of what constitutes a “fast” also evolved. Originally, one meal a day was allowed in the evening, and meat, fish, eggs, and butter were forbidden. Gradually the restriction was an abstention from “food derived from the flesh”. This not only meant meat, but also dairy products such as eggs. This may explain the tradition of gifting eggs at Easter.

A common fallacy is that fish was eventually “allowed” by the Church to prop up the Italian fishing industries. There is no evidence to support the claim. Italy, despite being a peninsula, does not really enjoy a robust fishing industry. The sea currents make fishing much more seasonal, and fresh fish barely finds it way inland. Keep in mind “Italy” wasn’t a unified country until 1860. The reason was more likely due to the role of fishes and fishermen played in the scriptures of Jesus.

Given that most of Italy was still in winter during the time vegetable choices were also skimpy. So the prohibition of meat, dairy and the scarcity of vegetables suited the penance sought by Catholics during their holiest period. Today many Catholics in Italy will forgo meat on Friday in honor of this tradition. Of course today that is not so much of a burden with many vegetarian dishes available . You'll find many hearty soups such as the classic "Pasta e fagioli", a favorite soup this time of year.

The leaning tower of .....Bologna?

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Thu, 23 Jan 2020 14:33:54 GMT

Bologna, the city of towers

Between the 12th and the 13th century, Bologna had somewhere between 100 to 180 towers of different sizes. The reasons for this are unclear, ranging from a show of wealth among rival families to defensive purposes. It is hard to imagine what the skyline must have looked like to a visitor approaching the city via the Emilia Way, the ancient road that led all the way back to Rome. At the entrance to the city on this road stood the tallest tower, the 320-foot Asinelli Tower. Next to it stands the truncated Garisenda Tower, presenting Bologna with a classic due torri signature that still stands today.

Built by rival families in the 12th century, the Garisenda tower was originally about the same height as its neighbor. However, the tower began to take on an unfortunate lean that forced its height to be taken down. Even the Asinelli has a slight lean to it, making them the “leaning towers of Bologna”. Today, it is possible to walk up the 498 wooden steps to the top of the Asinelli tower for a fantastic overview of the city.

After the 13th century, some towers were demolished, others collapsed, and many were destined to different uses, such as residential or commercial buildings, or as prisons. The last demolitions occurred in the early 20th century, along with the 14th-century city walls.

No more than twenty towers remain today in Bologna. During the market visit walk in the morning, we pass a few. The vegetable stand sits at the base of one and another is a restaurant. The “Towers of Bologna” are just another reason to come and visit this beautiful city.

Sparkling Wines of Emilia-Romagna

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Sat, 04 Jan 2020 18:01:46 GMT

Fiorentini's Famous Famosa

Italians take no back seat when it comes to producing sparkling wines. Prosecco from the Veneto, is a popular low cost, high value wine known around the world. It is made from the Glera grape and produced via the Charmat method; meaning that the second fermentation occurs in a large vat. Franciacorta is Italy’s answer to Champagne. It is produced in Lombardy using the traditional method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. Like Champagne, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are generally used.

Emilia Romagna is no stranger to sparkling wines either. The most famous, Lambrusco, was a very important export into the US back in the 80’s and now is exported around the world. The wines are located in the Emilia side of the region and is generally produced via the Charmat method. Some of the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) classified regions producing Lambrusco include:

Emilia DOC
Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC
Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC
Modena DOC
Reggiano DOC

However, there are other sparkling wines being produced in the region. Pignoletto is a DOC region where you can find a Spumante wine using the Grechetto grape. It is a light wine typically served as an aperitif.

In Romagna, Dr. Fiorentini, a winemaker in Fiorli, makes an IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wine he simply calls BVB. He uses the Charmat method and a very ancient grape called Famosa. It is a white aromatic grape similar in style to Moscato. It virtually disappeared in the twentieth century. With a little help from the University of Bologna, the grape staged a comeback of sorts and can be found growing on the countryside east of the city.

Fiorentini wines are served at the Culinary Institute of Bologna and this wine tends to be one of the favorites. Sparkling wines go well with the foods of the regions as they tend to be a bit more fatty. Think prosciutto and mortadella. A visit to his winery is always fun as he loves to offer his philosophy on wine. And life!

Christmas Eve Dinner

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Mon, 23 Dec 2019 18:20:58 GMT

Salted Cod is a Popular Choice

There are many "traditional" dinners made by families throughout Italy on Christmas Eve, but most involve some sort of fish as it is usually observed as a day of fasting from meat. A popular tradition known in the south of Italy is the "Feast of the Seven Fishes" which, as the name implies, is loaded with local fish baked or fried.

But in families throughout Italy, it would be common to serve Baccala, a salted cod that has been soaked in water for 2 to 3 days. Because of its preservation, salted cod was a popular holiday choice especially for people living away from the coast.

It is very versatile and can be fried or baked. A very simple way to prepare it is to coat it in flour and then fry it in olive oil. (make sure you soak it and change the water several times) A nice condiment is friggione, or onions braised for hours in tomatoes. Friggione is typical Bolognese. You can also serve it over grilled polenta.

Trip to Florence Market Added!

Mon, 16 Dec 2019 20:30:33 GMT

Spend a day tasting Tuscan treats!

The beautiful city of Florence is now part of our 7 and 10 day vacation packages. From Bologna, we will go and visit the newly renovated San Lorenzo Market . The market is housed in a building that was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, the same architect who designed the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II in Milan and was built from 1870-74.

Outside the building are many vendors where you can buy speciality gifts, jewelry and leather items. On the first floor is the Mercato Centrale full of food vendors representing the finest Tuscan specialities. Sample local cheeses, cured meats and wine. Try the local street food, lampredotto , which is a sandwich made from tripe. You can purchase the traditional liqueur, Alkeremes , a scarlet colored aperitiff that is used in many traditional recipes. Just imagine wandering from one stall to the next tasting regional specialities and to top of your day, drink an espresso from the coffee bar.

Depending on how much time you want to spend in the market, our trip can include some of the other fabulous sites of the city such as the famous cathedral, the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. You can tailor your visit with your personal chef who will be your guide on the trip.

The King of Cheese

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Mon, 09 Dec 2019 15:45:17 GMT

Parmigiano Reggiano Emilia Romagna's Finest

Parmigiano-Reggiano is produced exclusively in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and parts of the provinces of Mantua and Bologna, on the plains, hills and mountains enclosed between the rivers Po and Reno. This topography is unique in the Italian Peninsula and lends itself to prime grazing lands for cows. Only the milk from registered cows who feed off the local forage are allowed.

Milk is brought in every evening and left to rest until morning in large vats. When the whole milk from the morning milking arrives, it along with milk that was skimmed from the night before is poured into the typical bell-shaped copper cauldrons. Calf rennet and fermented whey, rich in natural lactic ferments obtained from the processing of the day before, are added. After about 50 minutes, the ball of cheese is dug out from the milk and left to dry. Once the characteristic wheel shape is formed, it gets inspected, stamped and placed in a warehouse for aging.

A visit to a cheese factory can be included as part of our vacation. You'll be able to taste the difference between 12 month old and 60 month old cheese. And you'll learn a few great recipes to take advantage of this gastronomy.

Monte Fumaiolo

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Sat, 30 Nov 2019 16:31:32 GMT

Breathtaking Natural Beauty

The Monte Fumaiolo area is in the southernmost part of Romagna, in the municipality of Verghereto, on the border with Tuscany and the Marche region. Monte Fumaiolo is one of the most fascinating peaks in the Forlì-Cesena Apennines because of its typical scenery. The whole area is environmentally protected: a tourist destination in summer and winter.

This is where our farmhouse is located. You'll discover the local culinary traditions, enjoy regional cheeses and meats and try rustic cooking techniques like cooking over a vintage fireplace. The brick oven was once used by the local monks to bake bread for the village, it is over 200 years old!

Enjoy this video from Fumaiolo Sentieri !

Why Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is Unique

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Mon, 11 Nov 2019 15:36:20 GMT

An Ancient Product

Traditional balsamic vineger from Modena is not meant for salad dressing. It is not produced from wine, as most vinegars, but from cooked grape juice (cooked must), aged by a long and slow acetification process, through natural fermentation.

Its progressive concentration is reached by aging in a series of barrels made of different types of woods and without any addition of spices or flavourings.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is one of the most ancient products of the Modena region and for sure unique in the world. And the bottle shape is also unique, a tell tale sign you are getting the authentic, certified version.

Origins go back in Roman times, as the Romans in Modena used to cook the grape juice to make sort of molasses which they called Saba, used to sweeten food, as well as they used honey.

The Romans had already discovered that under certain conditions Saba started a natural fermentation and acidification process. In the following centuries a technique to produce a very special vinegar was developed... the story of this dark gold was beginning.

Traditional balsamic vinegar is used and has always been used to make gifts to important people. In the past, it were the foreign imperial delegations passing through the Dukedom of Modena on their way to Rome, today it’s kings, princes, presidents, notables, food lovers and people you want to honour.

PRODUCTION

Traditional Balsamic vinegar production is a most fascinating example of a never ending art process.

Years after years the production cycle follows the rhythm of the seasons: the harvest is followed by the pressing of the grape (trebbiano modenese, lambrusco, pignoletto and other typical modenese grapes harvested in Modena in vineyards enrolled for the certification for traditional balsamic vinegar) and the cooking of the must. The cooked must is firstly placed in barriques, then aged in a series of decreasing volume barrels,made of different kinds of wood - the so called “batteria”.

Summer heat helps the concentration of sugar tenor, acidity and flavours, spring and autumn mild temperatures enable microbiological activities: fermentation and acetification.

Winter frost gives clearness to the product.

Every winter the traditional operations of “travaso” and “rincalzo” are performed: the smallest cask of the series is refilled with part of the vinegar of the previous one and so on, till the biggest barrel of the batteria, where the new cooked must is poured.

This continuous blending over years and years, gives aging to the vinegar and shapes its unique flavor and texture.

Only after 12 years of “travaso” and “rincalzo”, the minimum aging abiding by the protected origin designation, they can start taking out a small quantity of ready vinegar from the smallest cask of the series.

Castello di Petrella Guidi

Wed, 06 Nov 2019 17:25:42 GMT

Ancient Mountain Top Village

Castello di Petrella Guidi can be found is located on a mountain top in the Apennines in Sant'Agata Feltria. Petrella Guidi was one of the thirteen castles of the vicariate of Sant'Agata Feltria, and has very ancient origins. It is a place worth visiting just for its breathtaking views.

The village is still enclosed by its walls and is almost intact. The front door is very suggestive and leads to the central nucleus where you can find some private houses. a church and a recently renovated tower. The church houses a well known fresco of the Virgin.

Beside the church square you can enjoy a wide view of the Marecchia valley. The local population is limited to a few units, residing in buildings outside the walls. Various Medievil festivals are held throughout the year.

Hunter's Feast

Thu, 31 Oct 2019 16:39:54 GMT

Cacciatora: The Hunter's Feast

Hunters in central Italy would leave their homes with a few essentials in their packs. Anticipating that they would be successful in their quest, they would pack ingredients for a meal. They would pack a simple combination of garlic, rosemary, olive oil and a hunk of guanciale which would be all they would need for a delicious campside meal. While they might make this dish with a freshly killed rabbit, you can enjoy it with chicken cut into small pieces for a quick meal. Or you can come visit the mountains of Italy and learn how to cook this dish.

Cacciatora Recipe With Chicken (or Rabbit)

1 Garlic Clove

1 Tbls EVOO (or suet)

4 oz Cubed Guanciale

1 Sprig of Rosemary

2 Plum Tomatoes (taken from a can or fresh)

Chicken (or Rabbit) cut into small piece with skin on.

Salt and Pepper to taste

Pour the olive oil in a frying pan to cover. Add the garlic, guanciale, tomato and rosemary sprig and bring to a medium heat. Place the chicken pieces skin side down and brown until crisp. Flip over the meat and brown the other side. Add the salt and pepper to taste. Cook about 15 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.

Come Visit Urbino

183:754603680 (Carl Silvestri) — Mon, 28 Oct 2019 17:01:55 GMT

Birthplace of Raphael

Urbino is a city tucked in the mountains in central Italy. It's known for the turreted, 15th-century Palazzo Ducale and the birthplace of Raphael. Inside the palace, you can see his paintings and also that of Titian. Raphael’s House has more paintings, including ones by the artist’s father. Now through January the town is celebrating the 500 year anniversary of the famed Renaissance painter's death.

You can visit this city with us on either the 7 day or 10 day tour .